holley sniper efi iac problemswho is susie wargin married to

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It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. The last pic is with the car in Drive. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. These problems will go away when you do that. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. I have not heard of this. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. Did you find this enlightening? Definitely would have went with you guys. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. when things aren't working and this provides just that. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Thanks Again for your help. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. I never had a problem with this. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. It didnt do this with the carb on it. Or is there something else I should Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. Only show this user . Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? Hope this helps! nothing stays steady. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Your task will be to find that. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. All times are GMT-6. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Hey Chris Does that make sense to you? What you are experiencing is rather common. Idle > IAC Kick. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 It is a common one. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. As always, I recommend great restraint in changing any of the parameters until a significant amount of learning has taken place. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. We do that but most places don't. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Thank you for any advice. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at This page was generated at 12:26 AM. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Thanks! The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? started up the engine. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Is that normal? However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. So glad this was helpful. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. Then you can take a close look at the IAC and see if it is opening. Interesting question. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. Why is this? The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. Definitely not 90. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. I have been able to get it pretty You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. I appreciate everything you are saying. Several good bits here. Nice to meet you. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. I believe because the TPS is not registering. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Thanks for your very detailed question! Turned it off and on again. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. Yes, you are correct. The fix? Then it started behaving oddly. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. I started with right after I first adjusted for 2% IAC and took pics about every 30 seconds over about 2 minutes. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? Should I just disable idle timing control? Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. I.e. Capability Range: Professional The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. Capability Range: Advanced I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. If so remove it. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). This is very disappointing as people love to hear the motor while the hood is open.Thanks Jon. Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. I had this same exact issue. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Thank you so much for your follow-up. Kind of cuts into forum time. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. Tried that and it didn't work? It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. If they are closed, check the primaries. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. Also if I give it a I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. When you first posted this I had no idea how to respond. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) Seems to be working. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. Do you have a PCV on the engine? Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. Thanks for any help. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it.

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